DISCUSSION: Yesterday the islands of Niihau and Kauai contended with a frontal passage associated with an upper level low from the northwest. This frontal passage despite its ominous look for winter rains provided little to no moisture with just Kekaha registering precipitation, and Lihue showing light and heavy rain for a brief period early this morning on Kauai.
Winds are expected to increase to light trades and as high pressure moves into the state into the weekend, trade winds should be back and increasing. With relatively quiet weather with the upcoming weekend the northwest swell will increase to dangerous conditions. The conditions will affect north and west facing shores of the island chain. A High Surf Advisory has been issued to 6am Friday for these shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, with the advisory for North shores of Maui and the Big Island.
Meteorologists on the islands are urging surfers and swimmers to remain vigilant of high surf. The swell will pose wave heights of 20-24 feet along north facing shores with surf 14-18 feet along west facing shores. While not entirely attributed to the increasing swell, concerns mount due to the serious injury of professional surfer Dusty Payne on Monday, January 8th at Backdoor on the North Shore of Oahu, in addition to the death of another surfer earlier that morning at Rocky Point.
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© Meteorologist Jessica Olsen